French wine production is protected by a system of regulations that are the world's most exacting, and they ensure quality in every bottle. There are rules governing the size of each vineyard. Limits on production levels. Laws dictating where certain grapes may be grown.

This system means that the hard work has already been done for you. When you choose a bottle of French wine, that guarantee of origin is a promise of quality. Your only problem may be choosing from among such a dazzling, delicious and affordable selection!

Wine Classifications

In France, there are four classifications of wine with specific laws governing each. These laws are constantly being strengthened, which serves both the wines and the consumer.

Appellation d'Origine Controlee (AOC)

These wines are the finest and are scrupulously regulated. When looking at the label, note that the word for the area of origin will often replace "d'origine," as in Appellation Beaujolais Controlee.

Appellation d'Origine vin de Qualite Superieure (AOVDQS)

These come in a very close second to AOC wines in quality but are still precisely controlled.

Vin de Pays (Van Duh Pay-ee) Except for the AOC wines of Alsace, most French varietals-wines containing 100% of a particular grape variety and so named-are found in this category. The Languedoccessful in the development of high-quality varietal wines, the Vins de Pays d'Oc.

Vin de Table (Van Duh Tab)

Vins de table are the everyday table wines of the people of France and represent about one-third of all the wines produced in France. They offer consistent quality and value.

Before and After Dinner

Either before dinner, as an aperitif, or after dinner, as a digestif, or anytime for the matter, the wines and spirits on the following pages will delight you with their versatility. There are no hard and fast rules anymore: sip them straight-up or enjoy them in cocktails.

Aperitif comes from the Latin aperire, "to open". French aperitifs are great by themselves or paired with your favorite finger foods.

Liqueurs traditionally were elixirs created by monks in medieval times to treat a variety of maladies. They were also thought to be sure-five love potions. Alchemy aside, creating a liqueur is still a precise science-scores of ingredients are exactingly measured to produce a magical taste.

For hundreds of years in the Cognac region, north or Bordeaux, the Ungni Blanc grape has been twice-distilled and aged in oak from the nearby Limousin forests. During aging, up to three percent of all stocks is lost each year to evaporation. More poetically, it's known as "the angel's share."

Armagnac, from the Southwest, is France's oldest brandy, distilled continuously and aged in handmade oak casks. Calvados is the apple brandy from Normandy... Or, try eaux-de-vies, distilled but not aged, powerful with the perfume of the fruits from which they are made.

Practical Tips: Here are a few tips for serving and enjoying French wines:

What to Look For Color, aroma, and taste determine a wine's quality:

• Whether red, white, or rose, the color must be clear and brilliant.
• The aroma gives a good idea of the wine's taste (your nose can pick up over 2000 distinct aromas that translate into only four taste-sweet, sour, bitter, and salty). So swirl a glass, and take a big sniff!
• A wine should be tasted first and foremost with enjoyment in mind. Do you like it? That's all that counts. How To Open It
• Take a sharp blade and cut around the top foil about a quarter-inch below the bottle's rim. Wipe the rim clean, and remove the cork with a corkscrew, found in most grocery or housewares stores.

How Cold? How Warm? "Room temperature" comes from the days before central heating. When it's suggested that a wine be served that way, it means at about 65 degrees. Feel free to put even red wine in the fridge to cool it down -- but always avoid putting wine in the freezer.